ARGENTINA (III): Pride before the fall(s)

There will be different ways to interpret this title when you reach the end of my story. Some will be more obvious than others...

The last few days were really hectic and different from the rest of my trip (that's the least I can say). The story goes as follows:

When I stepped off the bus at the Buenos Aires terminal the 17th of November at 16u30, I decided to walk to the hostel I was planning to stay in. Walking in a new city, already shows you what kind of people are living there and in what kind of scenery. The things that struck me the most were the pace by which people walked and the pride by which the women were parading. This definitely didn´t seem to be a South American city but reminded me more of Paris. I guess the more stressed (and evolved) a population is, the faster they walk. Feeling home again and glad of it, I arrived at the Milhouse hostel which was crawling with people the time I got there. This party hostel organized lots of nocturnal activities (also daily ones but less important). I received room 209 and, to euphemize, the sense wasn´t one of roses. What happened in this room wasn't suited for the faint of heart.

That first night, I already experienced one of the things Buenos Aires is most known for: The Tango dance. It is a very stylish dance, much more static than a samba but definitely as elegant if not more. Tired of the bustrip, I just watched the lessons, memorized the footsteps (didn't practise though) and went to sleep. This will have turned out to be a very wise decision.

The next day (18th) I explored the city including districts like Palermo and Recoleta. These districts are the richer parts of Buenos Aires and have all kind of bars, clubs, shopping malls, boutiques, etc... . I visited the grave/tomb of Eva Peron (don´t cry for me Evita!) in the cementario de la recoleta and bought Boating shoes in the Galeria Pacifico afterwards. At night there was the France-Ireland world cup qualifying game and as the hostel was swarming with Irish guys, emotions heated up. There, I encountered the 2 great guys from Denmark Anders and Lasse who were sleeping in my room and who had an incredible schedule to fullfil in BA: At 22u starting drinking, partying until 6u in the morning, sleeping until 14u, doing nothing but recovering until 22u (maybe go to McDonalds in between) and repeating that sequence over again the next days.

The next day (19th) I took the first and last tour in Buenos Aires organized by the hostel: the Boca tour. In this tour I met this fun guy from the Netherlands Laurens and I spotted a beautiful girl from Wales, Beth. The tour brought us to one of the most dangerous places in BA where we visited the Caminito Calle (showing live tango shows) and the Boca juniors stadium. I think the guide told us that the Boca district was the first part of BA to arise. Sailors arrived here, danced with prostitutes and so the Tango originated.

In the Boca stadium you could immediately see that the best football player ever Diego Armando Maradona was and is the god there.

At night there was again a lot going on in the hostel, first there was happy hour until 1 AM and afterwards we went to club 69. This club was maybe a little bit too touristic. There Laurens, an Irish guy Dave, Beth and me had a really good time. Arriving at 6u in the morning finding out your room is empty (we were staying there with 8 guys), says something about the room. At 6u30 the Danish guys arrived, at 7u the Brazilian guys (of whom sleep is apparently unfamiliar) and a little bit later the loud Irish guys arrived. Every single minute the sound of silence disappeared little by little.

Being able to sleep 2 hours I woke up and from then on I followed the Danish schedule. I had really much fun with those guys (you like that huh huh you like that). The migits will appear at your doors sometimes Anders and Lasse!

Saturday night the Danish guys wanted to go on a pub crowl but I really wanted to go to Pacha , the most famous ,popular and expensive club in BA. Before hitting off, I drank some Vodka with Beth, Laurens and some Irish guys. Little tipsy I left the hostel and went to Pacha with Beth. I really enjoyed it (:-)) and really liked Beth. They say life is too short to be shy, well I guess I will just have to live a little bit longer. Too shy, too proud, too ... nothing, we returned back to the hostel at 5AM. But again the party hadn´t ended yet as the Danish guys and Irish guys of my room did all these crazy things: splashing the bathroom up untill the ceiling, dragging each other out of bed, covering sleeping persons with garbage (me), screaming like hell, it was really awful but I laughed with it afterwards (after an anger outburst; sorry guys).

Sunday I had to leave for Puerto Iguazu and it was the hardest goodbye on this trip. I really liked the Danish guys, the holland guy and yeah ofcourse the Welsh girl but that was different. I was so glad to still be able to experience that feeling again even for a short moment. I thought I lost it! Thanks for that although you didn't have to do anything, just be there. Beth, I hope you have a safe and great 8 months travelling and lots of fun in your law work afterwards :-).

Continuing, Monday morning I arrived in the humid and hot climate of Iguazu (almost same weather as in Rurrenabaque, Bolivia). It was a beautiful day and I decided to go to the falls right away. What I didn't know is you could take a wild boat trip there that completely soaks you. I had to do it and didn´t care about wearing long jeans. It was really great but afterwards my jeans had increased 3 times in mass . Continuing the exploration in the Iguazu park, I reached the apotheosis : Garganta del diablo (Devil's throat). The mass flow falling down is incredible but I think becoming impressed by things is slightly wearing off.

The next day it was really bad weather so I didn't do anything (the Danish style). I was a little bit bored but then buddy Laurens arrived. It was great to see a familar face again. He told me the Danish guys changed their plans and were also coming on Wednesday the 25th. I will just see them for a minute but then I have to leave because I have a deadline to reach. You are all wondering which one. Well... an old friend is coming to Brazil this Friday the 27th: Maarten De Clercq. We will have a great time Maarten, I am sure of it. I already talked to a lot of persons and know the best places in Brazil to visit.

So today I will go to Foz De Iguazu, Brazil and leave Argentina. What can I say, I will miss everything and everyone but the memories are forever.

Tired still-got-that-feeling party crasher Clint

ARGENTINA (II): Me, myself, I and a big *ss whale

Listen up chicos,

I know you are all anxiously waiting to find out what my next mysterious destination was (for the more bright ones among you the title gives a hint!). There is only one person who got the correct answer (out of the amazing number of 4 whole persons). Eline, that amount of money (300€) does not mean that much to me to take a 20 hr bus back to something I have already seen. Jans, partying 15 days was maybe something I would have done 5 years ago (now my body can only handle 5-6 days). Returning back home, well ... I just could not do that yet as not all my goals are accomplished (Elke is partly right but only said what I would not do). So Kurt, you are the only person who chose the one and only right option and therefore are the winner. The price is maybe the most valuable thing on this planet: my everlasting respect :-) . Yes friends, I could not NOT go to Patagonia while visiting Argentina (double negation but not the same as I could !). It will only be the north of Patagonia so no glaciers at el Calafate, no astonishing landscapes at Tierra Del Fuego but the following nonetheless startling places:

The 10th of November my bus arrived in Bariloche, a pitoresk little town located next to lake Nahuel Huapi where the weather by the way was much colder (10 C). San Carlos de Bariloche looks a bit like one of the towns in the Alps in Europe (maybe that inspired former nazis to come and live here). Everytime I spotted a white looking Argentinan with light coloured eyes overthere ... Nazi!! Anyway, I was planning to stay in the Tango inn hostel only 400 m away from the bus station so I decided to walk there. When I stood in front of the door, I spotted the place was closed for renovation and a little sign referred me to the hostel downtown. Refusing to pay for a taxi or bus, I continued my trip on foot and when I got there exhausted I decided to stay for 2 nights. What I didn´t know and what they didn´t tell me was that a group of 40 children was going to arrive that day, so, so much for peace and quiet. I don´t care, hostels are only havens to reside in from 22u to 8u. The following day I wanted to go to Cerro Catedral, a famous ski resort and one of the most important in South America. It was the first time in my travel that it was so hard just to get there. I was planning to take the bus but that same hostel (with incompetent people) gave me the wrong bus schedule and so I spent 4 hours chasing between bus stops (1 abajo and 1 arriba). Ofcourse when the bus was abajo, I was standing arriba and vice versa. Finally frustrated like hell and together with 2 Columbian girls I managed to arrive at the ski resort at 14u (started at 9u). I took the cable car all the way to the top where there was still snow lying. I did not rent ski equipment because half of my day was already gone and renting it for the 2 remaining hours was too expensive (the skilift closed at 16u). The view over the lake and mountains calmed me down though.

The next day I wanted to leave this dreadfull expensive place (=my experience, probably I was in the wrong place at the wrong time). I went to the busticket office but the Bariloche hell adventure wasn´t over yet. All the direct buses to my next destination were fully booked for the next 2 days. Oke no problem the hard way then… From Bariloche to Esquel, Esquel to Trelew, Trelew to Puerto Madryn and Puerto Madryn to Puerto Piramides. I left nazi hell the 12th at 13u and arrived at the small deserted little pueblo 12u the 13th (23 hrs travelling). But again it was worth the travel as you will see. Puerto Piramides is the only town located on the famous Peninsula Valdes (Schiereiland Valdes) inhabited by all kind of wildlife. On a trip around the island, I saw an eagle feasting on a small rabbit, maras (look like long legged rabbits), rheas (similar to ostriches), tons weighing elephant seals, sealions and penguins. It wasn´t over though as the most spectacular creature of them all was yet to see by boat trip: the southern right whale. Did you know that its testicle weighs over 500 kg... probably you didn´t. I have a great movie of them (of the whales not of the testicles guys). Go watch it on the slideshow of Argentina.
I saw all these animals but as the beach is off limits for everybody I wasn´t able to touch any of them, not even a silly little penguin. This will be the curse on my trip: not touching animals !!!(except maybe a cat here an there) Wheeiiiiiiiiiiiiiii....

The next 2 days I enjoyed the beach, sun and relaxed in this deserted place. This evening 22u (for you 2u in the morning) I will take again a 20 hr bus to the city of good winds.

Ciao
Not-allowed-to-touch-a-god-damn-thing whale watcher Clint

ARGENTINA (I): Culinary highlights and financial lows.

So (pfff here we go),

I left Chile the 30th of October by passing several mountain passes (among them Paso de Jama) and after 8 hours I ended up in the beautiful city of Salta at 22 o´clock at night. Starving after almost every busride, I decided not to wait with my gastronomical experience and that same evening I headed straight for a cheap but very delicious restaurant. At Don Jose (that´s how it was called), I consumed parillada which is a mixed grill of different kinds of meat (sausages, liver, chicken and of course steak).

I was eating like a mad man but you definitely can´t blame me after being 2 months in the less developed countries of Peru and Bolivia.

The following day I was able to find a camera shop and bought a Lumix Panasonic camera DMC-FS4 (probably too much information). I also had to buy the beautiful light blue white Argentinan football shirt to be in the mood for this country. After these expenses, I had to fulfill my second purpose of the Argentinan cuisine and that was to eat churrasco. I combined this grilled steak with 2 litres of Salta beer in hot and humid 35 C circumstances on the main plaza. A little tipsy, I walked the streets of Salta wearing my new T-shirt (damn it feels good to wear other clothes for a change) and headphones listening to "Supersonic" of Oasis. That particular moment it felt I could take on the world.

Returning to the hostel, I met this really crazy girl-mad oversexed Spanish guy Alfonso who was feeling sick at the time but nevertheless found the courage to join the barbecue that evening. There was steak, steak all you can eat so good steak... Jesus just to emphasize it the steak was so good: the size is much thicker than in Belgium and the taste yeah well I can´t describe it; you have to come to Argentina and taste it yourself.

Sunday the first of November(All Saints´ day--> did not celebrate the dead though), we (Alfonso, a German girl, a French girl and me) decided to walk to the Artisanal market of Salta which was one hour walking from the centre. It wasn´t interesting at all. I just mention this to be complete in my story.

The next day we (me and my one day lasting friend Alfo) were splitting up again and said our goodbyes. I decided to go to Cachi and see some Quebrada of the Northwest of Argentina with the impressive cactus fields. It was the most boring thing I had ever done on this journey. The average age of the people doing that trip was 65 years. Just sitting in the bus watching the scenery, spending an hour in the deserted town of Cachi (where we arrived at siesta time) and getting back was the complete program (wohoooo...). Luckily there was one person of my age where I had some fun with. We were both deceived by the agency though.

(By the way when I arrived at the hostel, I found your message Alfonso. It was funny but so true!)

I felt I had seen enough of Salta (and the northwest) and took the bus to Mendoza the next day. Just to give you some idea: the time between Salta and Mendoza is comparable when you travel from Gent to Madrid (20 hours).

When I arrived at the busstation I took another bus to Uspallata (2,5 hrs) to visit the place where the movie "7 years in Tibet" was shot. I went straight to the pub "Tibet" where Brad Pitt sat 12 years ago with some Tibetan bold guys. The bartender still remembered it like it was yesterday and gave me some information about it. Again I had a litre of beer and decided to rent a bicycle to bike to the place in the mountains where the movie was shot. It was supposedly 4 km away from the bar but when I asked it after 3 km cycling some old lady said it was “5 km mas”. I cycled and cycled but I had no idea where the place was situated. I arrived somewhere in the mountains and then just after shooting pictures I went back. I will compare those pictures with the movie when I get back home and hopefully I will be able to recognize some sceneries.

The next day I returned back to Mendoza as everything I wanted to see in Uspallata had been seen. Visiting the city, famous for its wine and the numerous bodegas that produce it, I had steak that evening combined with that other popular alcoholic drink.

Friday the 6th of November, the hostel organized a wine bike tour which is a tour where you bike from one bodega to another including degustations. We visited 3 bodegas, an olive oil factory and a chocolate-liqueur store. At that store I bought absynth (only 75 % alcohol which is child´s play after the bolivean alcohol of 98 %). That evening I met these 2 Irish guys Thomas and Colin and an American girl Autumn. We decided all together to go to a barbecue party, followed by free tequila. As you will notice, the way we drank it was not in ordinary shot glasses. Afterwards we went to a club where the story of my life manifested itself again. I was approached by a 17 year old Argentinan girl who thought, as so many think, I was 20 f***ing years old.

Together with the fact I found out that day that an Argentinan bank in Salta took 3 times the money, I withdrew from an ATM, off my account, Saturday I wasn´t in for a lot of fun anymore. However, I had the story of Autumn that cracked me up and eased my pain. The only thing I will say on this blog about it is: Autumn loves pretzels in the spring.

This evening I will leave for a certain place but it will remain secret untill my next blogpost. I will give you a few possible options though:

*I will go back to the bank in Salta to hear what they have to say and try to get my money back (300 euro).
*I will go to Buenos Aires and party for 15 days.
*I will go to Bariloche situated in the Lake District which is again 20 hours driving.
*I will fly to Rio and take back a flight home because I am sick of travelling and spending money.

Make your choice (=cool phrase from Saw movies),
Beer drinking wine taster Clint